Vicky Hayward

NEW ART of COOKERY

by Juan Altamiras

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edible history: recreating altamiras's recipes at home

Altamiras often wrote his recipes in New Art of Cookery in a shorthand style, but when it came to unusual or original methods he went into detail, making them remarkably easy to recreate at home today.
Here, below, are a few of his landmark dishes as I’ve cooked and photographed them in my small everyday home kitchen. Along with each recipe is cultural context expanding on the book’s old recipes and their modern versions.
Recreations by the few chefs passionate about historic cookery – for example, Alain Senderens, Anton Mosimann, Heston Blumenthal and, in Spain, Kiko Moya – are the most inspirational of all. Senderens led the way not only in his “archéologie du culinaire”, or updating of cookery knowledge as sedimented over millenia, but also in his rejection of over-luxurious status cookery.
But that doesn’t mean we cannot try historic cookery at home. Altamiras’s recipes allow improvisation, they jolt our taste buds alive beyond the sweet and salt divide, and they allow us to come back to 21st-century cookery with new perspectives.

Lamb or hogget tortillas served with spicy green guindilla peppers.
18 02 202421 07 2026Lamb Tortillas
Spinach macerated in olive oil aromatised with raisins and served with toasted pine kernels.
18 02 202421 07 2026Spinach in Raisin Oil with Pine Kernels
Crispy-skinned paper-wrapped roast chicken and tomatoes.
10 10 202321 07 2026CRISPY-SKINNED, PAPER-WRAPPED ROAST CHICKEN AND TOMATOES
Fried spelt flour puffs with pear and marzipan filling and a honey-anise glaze.
24 02 202321 06 2026FRIED SPELT-FLOUR PUFFS WITH HONEY-ANIS GLAZE
Bomba rice, an absorbent round variety cooked here with fish broth, tomatoes and saffron.
24 02 202321 07 2026RICE AND BEANS: EVERYDAY WISDOM
Breadcrumb-coated chard fritters fried in very hot olive oil.
06 10 202221 07 2026CHARD FRITTERS
Crumb custard with a liquid caramel topping and toasted almonds.
06 10 202221 07 2026CRUMB CUSTARD, CARAMEL TOPPING
Hazelnut, saffron and garlic cream soup, excellent served hot or cold.
04 04 202221 07 2026HAZELNUT CREAM SOUP
An emblematic Franciscan dish, burete is a leafy green soup thickened with breadcrumbs and given flavour by slowly sweated onion.
22 11 202121 07 2026BURETE, FRANCISCAN LEAFY SOUP
Altamiras’s fish pie, recreated here with salmon, keeps his olive-oil crust.
30 08 202121 07 2026PIES: RECREATING EARLY MODERN PASTRIES AND PIE-CRUSTS
Hazelnut-thickened fish broth garnished with poppy seeds.
06 05 202121 07 2026FISH AND AVELLANA DRINKING SOUP
Home-cured tuna in a salpicon salad.
02 11 202021 07 2026SALT-TUNA SALPICÓN
02 11 202021 07 2026FRIED ROOTS, BROWNED FLOUR, BLACK SAUCES
Steamed cabbage custard with onion compote and asparagus tips.
02 11 202021 07 2026STEAMED CABBAGE CUSTARD
A roasted sardine with parsleyed breadcrumbs baked in a paper box.
21 09 202021 07 2026SARDINES OR MACKEREL BAKED IN A PAPER BOX
Spiced green asparagus, fried eggs and olive-oil fried breadcrumbs.
21 09 202021 07 2026MARINATED FRIED GREEN ASPARAGUS, EGGS, FRIED BREADCRUMBS
Roast turkey, sweet-and-sour-lemon sauce, chunked fried potatoes and bundled red chard.
18 12 201921 07 2026ROAST TURKEY WITH SWEET-AND-SOUR LEMON SAUCE
Spanish agraz came in three forms: as a granular powder or paste, a cloudly fresh juice, and a clear sedimented liquid.
18 12 201921 07 2026SPANISH VERJUICE OR AGRAZ: SPARKS OF ACIDITY
Fish fillets preserved in olive oil flavoured with fresh green garlic.
04 12 201921 07 2026FISH OR SHELLFISH PRESERVED IN OLIVE OIL
Butternut pumpkin roasted in its skin gives a dry purée, ideal for pie fillings.
04 12 201921 07 2026ROAST BUTTERNUT PUMPKIN TARTLETS
Altamiras filled empanadilla pasties with wild thistle mushrooms and a hazelnut paste.
21 09 201921 07 2026WILD MUSHROOM EMPANADILLAS
Salmon and breadcrumb dumplings simmered in chickpea broth.
27 05 201921 07 2026SALMON DUMPLINGS IN CHICKPEA BROTH
Braised beef, ox or calf cheeks have gelatinous textures. Try serving them with slices of salted or pickled lemon.
14 05 201921 07 2026BRAISED BEEF, OX OR CALF CHEEKS
Apple sliced and braised with fresh sage, cinnamon stick and cane sugar.
14 05 201921 07 2026BRAISED APPLE WITH SAGE
Altamiras made granizada slushes with fresh lemon juice, cinnamon syrup and almond milk, but you can also use bitter orange, cherry or peach juice.
07 03 201921 07 2026LEMON, CINNAMON AND BITTER ORANGE GRANIZADAS
Braise chunked butternut pumpkin with chopped quince and sliced onions for a range of savoury, acidic and fruity flavours.
11 02 201914 06 2025PUMPKIN, QUINCE AND ONION REOGADO
Green beans tossed in olive oil aromatised with onions.
11 02 201921 07 2026GREEN BEANS TOSSED IN ONION OLIVE OIL
Green table olives marinated here with fennel, bay, thyme, orange zest and garlic.
11 02 201921 07 2026MARINATING TABLE OLIVES
Altamiras’s version of almendrada, a courtly dish, goes well with a tart summer fruit purée, like sieved raspberry, or home-made winter apricot, plum and cranberry conserves. © Vicky Hayward, 2026
27 12 201821 07 2026ALMENDRADA, AN ALMOND CREAM
Courgettes, pumpkins and onions stuffed with spiced minced lamb filling are good braised and served in their own cooking juices.
23 10 201821 07 2026STUFFED VERDURAS
Chickpea broth seasoned with lemon and parsley and, if you like, a little olive oil.
21 07 201821 07 2026CHICKPEA BROTH
Wood-grill or griddle trimmed whole green garlic stems in their skins to eat like calçots, the Catalan spring onions served with romesco sauce.
12 09 201721 07 2026WOOD-GRILLED OR GRIDDLED GREEN GARLIC
Saffroned sofrito, goat’s cheese, and black Empletre olive purée combine as a great filling for pastry tartlets.
12 09 201721 07 2026COOKERY WORKSHOPS: DESIGNING TAPAS AROUND ALTAMIRAS’S FLAVOURS
A deep-dish pie works well for Altamiras’s chunky chicken and lettuce pie.
12 06 201721 07 2026CHICKEN AND LETTUCE PIES
Pumpkin and honey soup is made with milk or cream, hot meat broth and honey.
03 01 201721 07 2026PUMPKIN AND HONEY SOUP
Chickpeas stewed with raw salt-cod and spices, and served with greens, become today’s much- loved potaje de cuaresma.
20 03 201621 07 2026STEWED CHICKPEAS
The original alioli, also known as ajo, is an emulsion purely of raw garlic and olive-oil. Altamiras stabilised it with egg yolks and breadcrumbs.
13 01 201521 07 2026ALIOLI

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© 2017-2026 BUILT AND ENGINEERED BY IRONBACK SOFTWARE. DESIGN BY JUANJO TEJADO IN COLLABORATION WITH VICKY HAYWARD. The book's contents are registered UNDER THE LPI C. 2007, 2010, 2014. BOOK C. 2017. ALL WRITING & PHOTOGRAPHY BY VICKY HAYWARD © 2017-2026, UNLESS CREDITED VIA PERMISSIONS.

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