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NEW ART of COOKERY

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The Secret Kingdoms’ celebration of the “New Art of Cookery” paperback was a dialogue with tasting of 18th-century flavours in the bookshop.

“THE SECRET KINGDOMS”: ON PAPER, BOOKSHOPS & READERS

The Secret Kingdoms’ celebration of the “New Art of Cookery” paperback was a dialogue with tasting of 18th-century flavours in the bookshop.
Among books: David Price (right), Richard Lewington (left) and some of the readers at the The Secret Kingdoms dialogue with tasting. Photo: Filipa

The aroma of fresh print on paper, which we once took for granted, has become an occasional pleasure today. Enter The Secret Kingdoms, and the door swings open under the founder’s early 1900s shop-sign to access 20,000 English-language books arranged on sturdy metal shelf-units and desks. At the front Gen Y can browse through an eclectic cocktail of fiction-sagas, poetry, sci-fi, eco-essays and politics, that fizzy mix which is helping to revive independent bookshops around Europe. Deeper into the shop, where freshly arrived books are unboxed, the aroma of print on paper fills the air. Foodie volumes may not catch your eye at first, but two dozen or so line a small waist-high shelf-unit.

 

This hand-curated approach, with the books on display shuffled almost every day, explains how the shop, “run for love not money” as co-founder David Price puts it, keeps its finger on Madrid’s cultural pulse.

 

When David and his wife Bea invited me to celebrate the paperback debut of New Art, we worked up a hedgehopping dialogue presentation with everyday 18th-century flavours threaded through the interview. As the British Spanish Society came on board as co-hosts, the audience grew to a sparky full house of English, Americans and Spaniards, a mix of young academics, the odd historian, home cooks, and the founders of a history book-club.

 

Their shared afición for history and food allowed us to dig into whys and wherefores: why, for example, a historic culinary culture apparently “belonging” to place may have been attached to a wider scenario of networks, now invisible; where and how Morisco food culture has left a deep imprint in early modern Spain; and how narrated history can use archives and texts to explore unwritten food culture. We also touched on “a serious problem”, as the great social historian Peter Burke has called the habit of branding recent and evolving culture as subsumed in “traditional” – in this case, in food culture. We also found time to highlight the exceptional social impact of Spain’s chef community, among whom seven creative figures appear in my book.

 

The audience wanted to know more: for example, of the divide between friary and monastic cookery across the centuries by the friars’ focus on cooking for the hungry. One remark went to the everyday heart of the matter: can one learn to cook from this new edition of the book? My answer was, yes.

 

My thanks for the invitation to present the book go to David and Bea for their inspired and expert production of the small-gig format, and to Richard Lewington of the British Spanish Society, whose opening words paid timely homage to peaceful cross-frontier culture.

© Vicky Hayward, 2025

❖ If you’d like to read this text in Español, just click on this link!

The Secret Kingdoms keeps the shop founder’s early 1900 Modernist glass sign, under which large windows look on to 20,000 shelved and displayed books.
The Secret Kingdoms keeps the shop founder’s early 1900 Modernist glass sign, under which large windows look on to 20,000 shelved and displayed books. Photo: Vicky Hayward
Pau of InGame Productores captured the event on film and Filipa of The Secret Kingdoms ensured that the flavour tastings reached every member of the audience. Photo: David Price
Behind the scenes: Pau, of InGame Productions, with Filipa, of The Secret Kingdoms, who helped with the set-up of the flavour-tastings served during the event. Photo: David Price
The six flavours included a tomato, orange and garlic compôte, spinach dressed in raisin and garlic olive oil, and mushroom and hazelnut-paste empanadillas.
Portable on-the-go flavours: tomato, orange and garlic compôte; spinach dressed with raisin-infused oil, garlic and pine-kernels; and mushroom and hazelnut-paste empanadillas, or hand-pies, three of the seven flavour tastings. Photos: Vicky Hayward
The six flavours included a tomato, orange and garlic compôte, spinach dressed in raisin and garlic olive oil, and mushroom and hazelnut-paste empanadillas.
The six flavours included a tomato, orange and garlic compôte, spinach dressed in raisin and garlic olive oil, and mushroom and hazelnut-paste empanadillas.
The six flavours included a tomato, orange and garlic compôte, spinach dressed in raisin and garlic olive oil, and mushroom and hazelnut-paste empanadillas.

The audience’s curiosity allowed us to dig into whys and wherefores: why a historic food system «belonging» to place may in reality have been shaped by wider networks, now invisible, and where the distinctions sit between historic narrative and narrated history.”

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Summary
Article Name
KIKO MOYA: EXPLORING A LANDSCAPE ACROSS TIME
Author
Vicky Hayward

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