Hand-grated breadcrumbs appear in several dozen Juan Altamiras dishes: he would have used wheaten white, wholegrain wheat, spelt, rye, or barley mixed grain at various times. Below left, panko, a short-cut if you have no bread available.

Vicky Hayward

Vicky Hayward is a freelance features writer, based in Madrid, whose articles about the arts, food and social issues are published internationally.